PUEBLO TEXTILES

Sometimes, people are surprised to learn that there are any textiles made by Pueblo Indians. In fact, the Pueblo textiles of today are descended from one of the more advanced pre-Columbian textile traditions of the New World. Archeological evidence shows that cotton was cultivated and used in what is now the American Southwest for some 500 years before the advent of the Conquistadores. A variety of textiles were made from other fibers-baskets, sandals, bags, and cordage were made of various baste fibers from yuccas, agaves and apocynum (Indian Hemp). Blankets were made from cordage composed of rabbit skins or turkey feathers, woven or twined on simple looms. A net, made of human hair, measuring 151 feet by 5 feet, was found in a cave in the boot heel of New Mexico.

The ancestral Pueblo people employed a wide range of textile techniques- cordage and basket making, weaving, sprang (an off-loom finger manipulated plaiting process) and embroidery. The Spaniards were startled to encounter “savages” who were clothed in woven, decorated clothing. One method of decoration used was embroidery. The ancient Pueblo stitch is unique to these people-it is a variation of the back stitch and is still in evidence today, used to decorate the mantas and kilts that are worn during the many dance ceremonies at all the different pueblos in New Mexico and Arizona.

The loom woven goods of the Pueblo people show great sophistication. The traditional black manta of Hopi, Zuni and Acoma is used by all the Pueblo people. Close examination of this garment shows a variety of complex twill weaves, sectioned off by a variety of twining techniques and sometimes embellished with embroidery. The Pueblo people are generally credited with sharing their knowledge of weaving with the Navajos. Both people use an upright loom and produce a cloth that has four selvedges. The weaving traditions of the Rio Grande Pueblos were severely impacted by the Entrada, and are pretty much extinct at this point, with the exception of belt weaving. A variety of float patterned belts are produced. These belts, whether white cotton rain sashes or wool dance belts, are need for the dance ceremonies.

Crocheted dance leggings are another frequently produced item. These leggings are worn by the men, and are produced by women in a range of patterns.

Visit any Pueblo during Feast Day to see a glorious display of an active textile tradition. You will see men, women and children wearing clothing embroidered with designs that have been used for centuries. This continuity of ceremony and design is evidence of an ancient and extremely durable culture.